Mar 30, 2009

If these stairs could talk...



Our stairs have seen a lot in their 105 years.

At least once a day they see a little blonde girl going up and down, practicing her English as she counts each step out loud.

For nearly 30 years they saw the Spanish couple that lived in the apartment before we moved in. And in those 30 years they never saw a France Telecom worker make their way to the door because the couple never felt the need to install a phone line. All that changed the first day the Americans moved in...



Once the stairs saw me up-close and personal when I fell down the top flight with a bag of recycling in one hand and a bag of trash in the other. They have never seen me taking out the recycling or trash since that day, but they see Jonathan do it twice a week.

In the winter they see a slender woman in bright colors sneak up the stairs to the attic to roll her cigarette and smoke, avoiding the three flights of stairs and the icy air outside.



How many re-usable grocery bags have these stairs seen hauled up their steps? How many times have they seen people stop and pause on the landings to catch their breath and take a look out the window?

Three years ago these stairs saw the body of a young woman carried down, her apartment filled with gas fumes. For weeks afterwards, they heard her alarm clock go off every morning. No one was home to turn it off.



Recently, these stairs have been regularly sprinkled (not dunked - they aren't Baptist) as I carry water down to the garden. On the way back up, I leave mud on the stairs next to the drops of water.

At around 11am, they see the postman delivering bills and letters into each apartment's assigned box on the ground floor. Of course, they don't see him on Sundays or the 11 public holidays.



These stairs have heard many languages spoken by its residents. In the last ten years they've heard French, Italian, Polish, English, Spanish and Arabic.

If these stairs could talk, the stories they could tell.


Mar 27, 2009

Oh the pain, the agony...

My to-do list for today had 13 items on it. I just added 'update blog' so that I could have something to cross off and feel like I'm getting somewhere. (Admit it. You've done it too.)

Finish filing taxes is item one on the now-14-long list. But since I'm a silver lining kind of person, I'd like to point out that these tax forms are in English. The real suffering comes in a few months when I file in France.

Silver lining numéro deux is that there is springtime sun coming in the window as I sit here and labor through the tax forms. I'm sure the grandgarden is thankful for that. As of yesterday evening I had lost only one seedling - a red lettuce. The other 11 lettuces, 12 spinaches, 3 parsleys, 1 mint and 1 rosemary seem to have survived The Great Transplanting of 2009. I did a little research and am pretty sure that the lettuces are laitue batavia (French crisp leaf), feuille de chêne rouge and feuille de chêne vert (red and green oak leaf).


These did not grow in the grandgarden, but I liked this photo of the flower shop at Bellecour in the evening.

Update blog. Ahh...that feels better.

Mar 23, 2009

Meet the grandgarden...


Seedlings ready to be transplanted: parsley, three kinds of lettuce, spinach and rosemary

We have reached that age in life in which many of our friends have had babies. Some of them are even having their second or third babies. Occasionally this brings on a bit of fièvre bébé, but I've found a cure: carry groceries up the three flights of stairs to our apartment. That'll quench any desire you might have to carry anything else, even something cute and tiny wearing one of those headbands that looks like a garter.

Since producing grandkids are still a ways out, I thought I'd introduce you to another special addition to our lives. I'm calling it 'the grandgarden'.


The grandgarden. (Click here to see a before picture.)

So instead of a birth story, I'll tell you about how I transplanted little seedlings I bought at the market. Instead of week-by-week belly shots, you will hopefully see how quickly the lettuce is growing. No complaints about sleepless nights here, but there may be the occasional rant about having to carry the watering can down three flights of stairs since there's not a water source out back.


My 2-liter "watering can" for the seedlings. The real one holds 11 liters and is loads of fun on the stairwell.


My new friends


One of the lettuce seedlings (don't ask me which variety - I'm doing good to know it's lettuce!)

If that last paragraph bored you, I do apologize. But part of the reason I have waited so long to plant a grandgarden was because I didn't know if people like me - with overgrown trash pits for a yard and a pathetic success rate for keeping house plants alive - could actually grow food to eat. I have a lot of friends who garden, but I never saw how they started. Just brightly colored pictures of their beautiful produce.

So I am setting out to chart the uncharted. Beginning to hopefully delicious end, meet the grandgarden.


I have hope. If these beautiful flowers can grown out of a concrete wall, I think my garden has a shot.

Mar 21, 2009

The boule is in my court...



As previously shown here and here, the game of boules or pétanque is very popular in these parts. How popular, you ask? An estimated 17 million people play the game - and I think many of them use the court in front of our apartment. Now that spring is hinting, we can open our window and hear the soft metallic clinks as the neighborhood elders play in the afternoon and evening.



The origins of the game go back to the Ancient Greeks in the 6th century BC. Back then it was tossing stones. The Ancient Romans added the twist of a 'target' (think horseshoes). Appparently the competition got heated when they brought the game to Provence and Italy because they added the step of measuring distances to keep score points.



By the Middle Ages it was the in thing to do. All of Europe was playing, although now with weighted wooden balls. Some people must have been a little obsessed and played it too much. In the 14th century the game was banned for commoners by kings Charles IV and later Charles V. But in the 17th century the ban was lifted and the boulistes were back at it.

Pétanque in its current form was developed in 1907. It is played in courtyards, squares, playgrounds and parks in every corner of towns and cities throughout France.

But if I may toot our local horn, boule lyonnaise was invented right here. It's basically the same idea, but you get a little running start. That's right. We like our pétanque with a twist.

Mar 18, 2009

Tapas in the barrio...


Uncle Jonathan and Renae


Tables lining the sidewalk for tapas in the evening


Kevin and Penni


Best buds (well - second best)


Jesse and Julie


The infamous cheese face...and I think some crackers


Enjoying the warm evening before returning to chillier France




Jesse, Julie y Renae


Just chillin'


Pizza queens


Julie made us a birthday cake. Apparently Jonathan is staying 30 this year ;)


I think Renae will think of me as the aunt who always wanted to fix her hair or paint her nails. Oh well. There are worse things!


”I am trapped in a stroller. You must get help.”


And that is the last of our pictures from our ‘hop over to Spain’. It was great seeing you guys!

Mar 17, 2009

Café solo and a big pastry...


Walking to the café with Renae...oh, and Jonathan ;)

On Saturday morning we set out to do breakfast Spanish-style: just before noon. We walked to a café in the neighborhood where Jonathan could finally master the art of ordering an espresso in Spanish. (Called a café solo, if you ever need to know.) I'm more of a café con leche kind of girl myself. I decided that I could take a break from the 40 Days of Water challenge to enjoy a coffee with my pastry. After all, how often does one 'hop over to Spain' for the weekend? (Answer: Not very!)


Yup. It was very hard to choose. Especially since they were quite a bit cheaper than in France!


Three big pastries, 2 cafés solos, 1 café con leche, 1 hot chocolate, and a bunch of happy people.


Julie's Napolitana, a flaky chocolate-filled pastry


Jesse, Renae and Kevin


Jonathan's café solo


The barista


My apple pastry. Dee-lish.


Bread for sale. We bought two for lunch.


So, what will you be ordering?

Mar 16, 2009

Retreat? Yes, Please.

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Let's say you've just arrived in Madrid and are spending the day with your family. What do you do first?



You hop on the 90-year old metro system and head out. Where to?



Well, if you're arriving in mid-March and have come from colder climates (France...Iowa!) you want to make the most of the warm, Spanish sun. So we did. We went to the 350-acre Parque del Buen Retiro (literally "Park of the Pleasant Retreat") which is located in the city center. (Even though we took naps and played Frisbee it still counts as sightseeing because the park is one of Madrid's premier attractions. )


Just resting.


Renae


Frisbee? Sure, I'll play.


Boats for rent at the Parque del Buen Retiro. In the background you can see the Monument to Alfonso XII.


Les Masson


My turn for Renae-time!


Gargoyles at the base of the statue of Fountain of the Falling Angel by Ricardo Bellver (1877)


Statue of Lucifer in the Parque del Buen Retiro


Making Renae a flower-pigtailed child


Retiro-ing




My reflection in one of the sculptures in the park's Palacio de Cristal.


I know I already posted this one, but it's the only group shot we got on this trip!



To be continued...