Jun 30, 2009

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder...


Mind the gap.

When I was 12 years old, my parents paid for me to have a minor surgery that would 'fix' the gap between my two front teeth. Scandalous. Why would parents intentionally make their child less attractive? That's the question that could have been asked by our neighbors when we returned to Côte d'Ivoire, West Africa, the following year.

In the Ivorian culture, a woman with a gap between her front teeth is a real beauty. It's not only a prized look, but also serves the function of allowing her to spit further.

While I grew up in this culture, I admit that I never grew to appreciate the beauty of a woman with a good spitting gap. I did think that tribal scaring was beautiful - and still do, in fact. Many ethnic groups in West Africa used scarring as a form of tribal identification. Even now, I find scars often add character to a person's face. I knew an American woman who had a scar on her cheek from a childhood accident. She wanted plastic surgery to 'fix' it, but I thought she was gorgeous and the scar only accented her beauty.

It's not just above the neckline that beauty ideals change from culture to culture. I was living in Senegal when Jonathan and I got engaged and two very well-meaning friends pulled me aside to tell me that if I didn't gain weight before getting married, my husband would be very disappointed on our wedding night. In a developing country such as Senegal, a full-bodied woman is beautiful. It means her family is rich enough for her to eat well.



I can't say that I intentionally tried to gain weight for the wedding, but I did start wearing my nails shorter in Senegal. A kind woman once took my hand in hers and told me that a woman with long nails is a woman who doesn't work hard and therefore isn't respected. She explained that Senegalese women did not hold toubab (white) women to the same standards and that it was okay for me to have longer nails, but not her. But you'd better believe I went right home and busted out the nail file.



While I carefully apply my self-tanner on Today I'm Wearing a Skirt Days, women in Senegal apply skin-lighteners to their faces. Unfortunately these bleaching products can cause severe damage and scarring. Knowing this, women still do it for the sake of beauty. Not altogether unlike the dangers associated with the tanning bed craze in the US, is it? We want darker, they want lighter - and we both ignore the risks in pursuit of beauty.

And what about the French beauty ideals? I can feel the eggshells under my feet as I bring up this topic, so I'll simply illustrate with an anecdote. About two years ago I was having a discussion with a French woman about women in the US. She asked if they all looked like in the American movies she'd seen. I asked, "You mean always put together from head to toe?" Nope. What she meant was are they all as large as those on screen. (Gulp.) Keep in mind that she was not being rude at all - just surprised by the differences in our cultural beauty ideals.

Good thing Jonathan feeds my self-esteem well. Too thin in Senegal, too large in France. I might just begin to feel like Goldilocks in search of the culture that I fit just right!

Jun 27, 2009

Route 2...



In our neighborhood there are basically two routes we run. Route 1 has more shade and less hills, but every now and then I feel the need for a fix from Route 2. That's where my cheerleaders are.

Over the canal bridge, past the two magnificent gardens that I covet, and up a little ways is the senior center. The street that passes in front is dotted with park benches, each filled by three or four mémés and papis. As I run in front of their benches, it seems as if each one has a message for me. Perching forward on their canes, they say:

"Allez ! Keep going!"

"Enjoy it while you're young!"

"Du courage !"

"Attention ! You need to be careful in this heat."

The last time I ran this route, one of the mémés was feeling particularly spunky and stuck her cane out as a barrier as I came her way. As I made the little detour, she just giggled and said, "I made her go further!"

Without my glasses I don't recognize their faces, but I suspect she may be the same woman who waved her hand to motion me across the street today and then said, "Run an extra meter for me!" Already done, my dear.

Thanks for the fix, Route 2. A bientôt.

Jun 25, 2009

The world's belly button, right here...



This past Sunday was the annual Fête de la Musique celebrated across the country. Free musical performances are held in every neighborhood and many of their street corners. The June 21st festivities originated here in France and have since spread to countries across the world. (Kind of like chocolate éclairs and Dijon mustard.)



To give you an idea of just how focused on the music we are, take a look at the photos on this post. These are from the beginning of the evening. I was afraid I'd forget to get any with us in them later that night. Wrong concern. I forgot to take any as we walked across the city for three hours ! Comment dit-on 'self-centered' en français? :)

Funny French tidbit: To say that someone thinks they are the center of the world, the expression is se prendre pour le nombril du monde. Literally, it means that they think they are the world's belly button!

Jun 23, 2009

Madame Masson gets a library card...

It was hot, still afternoon in June when Madame Masson set out on her mission. Armed with a blank check, a copy of her latest phone bill and her French residency card, she walked the winding neighborhood streets to her destination. The building was bigger than she'd remembered. Summoning her confidence, she walked through the heavy double doors and up to the woman seated behind the counter.

"Bonjour," said Madame Masson. "I'd like to apply for a library card, please." A look of confusion flashed across the woman's face, then a small smile. "You'll need to go across the street to the library to do that. This is the neighborhood cultural center."

Oops.

Undeterred, Madame Masson thanked the kind woman and walked out of the big building and across the street to the library where she announced her desire to apply for a library card for the second time that day.

"Identification?" Check.
"Proof of address?" Check.
"Check for 11 euros?" Checkity-check.

Several stamps, forms, keyboard strokes and a signature later, Madame Masson got her library card on that hot, still June afternoon.


Her library card and the receipt for an adult membership...not for adult books.

The library was about 2,000 square feet, divided into the usual sections: fiction, autobiographies, periodicals, juvenile and foreign language. In search of books in her native language, Madame Masson bee-lined it to the eight shelves marked anglais. It seemed the librarian was right when she told Madame Masson that they didn't have much to offer in anglais. But among the book titles she recognized from her forced-reading-list in high school, Madame Masson found a few little treasures.

One such unexpected treasure came when she realized that if she focused her eyes on just the English book titles, she could pretend she was in America for a few brief moments.



An hour later, Madame Masson made her way to the desk with her selection of six books. (Just under the max limit of seven.) She was pleased with her choice of two books in anglais and four in français - two of which were written by Senegalese authors. Le ventre de l'Atlantique, by Fatou Diome, is about a woman whose brother wants to leave Senegal to live the dream in France. Abasse Ndione is the author Ramata and is also from the town of Bargny - Madame Masson's old neck of the desert!




We shall see on July 3rd, the return due date, how far she made it in her reading list.

Jun 20, 2009

Park it here...


Mmm... chocolate!

Saturday afternoon was the perfect day for walking in the Parc de la Tête d'Or. Lucky for us, our friends Vincent and Claire thought so too.


Claire and Vincent are so fun to be with - and the girls are so cute. We're really going to miss them when they move at the beginning of the school year.


Like I said - very fun :)


Six years married soon! (They have us beat by a year.)


Hanging out with Judy and Claire


I know - it looks as if Jonathan is stealing the stroller and bicycle. But actually...


He was running around with Noémi. Gotta' burn off that chocolate.


Claire's turn


The real runner. Vincent runs horribly long races... barefoot. I'm not kidding.


I was thrilled that Judy let me hold her most of the afternoon. She's so sweet and teeny!

Jun 18, 2009

And we're back in 5, 4, 3, 2, now...

Picking back up where we left off, our trip down to Avignon with Rob and Anika last weekend.


This one is for Chris and Kate.


We ate lunch on the terrace restaurant to the right, behind the blackboard.


Lunch in front of the theatre


We stumbled upon a market of local products being held in the courtyard around this church.


Le Pont St Bénezet, a medieval bridge with quite the legend behind it


Happy. Hot. Happy.


Jonathan managed to walk past the little shops without getting distracted by a single item.


Church in Avignon


Say cheese, Buddy!



Shopping district


Yes. It was GOOD on this toasty afternoon. I had raspberry and lemon. Perfect.


Mmm...two scoops.


Arches in the church courtyard


I love the winding streets.


It's the season for dining en terrace!


Corner statue


Shopping district


This building across from the Palais shows Pope Paul V's coat of arms.


Baskets in a shop

Jun 16, 2009

We interrupt this program...

I know, I know. I promised the rest of the photos from our weekend adventure in Avignon -and they are coming! But I wanted to interrupt the regularly scheduled programming to bring you an update on our appointment at the Senegalese Consulate yesterday.


What does one pack in her purse for a trip to the Consulate? Passports, Wolof lessons on MP3 player, attaya (tea) as a gift.

I don't know if you've ever been to an Embassy or Consulate before, but I've certainly never been to one like the Senegalese Consulate in Lyon. Seriously - it was like walking back into Africa.

It was awesome.

There was no security check. No asking for our passports or ID of any kind. Not even asking our names. We just said, "We have an appointment at 11am." The secretary said, "Go upstairs, first office on the left." So we went.


Standing under the Senegalese flag outside the Consulate

The reason we made this appointment was to get a head start on the formalities for moving to Senegal and starting a clinic. After our experience moving to France, we knew that there would be a LOT of paperwork for visas, residency permits, taxes, renting a house, setting up utilities, opening bank accounts, plus starting a business in cooperation with the Minister of Health.

Here's what we found out: all of that can be done once we arrive. Because we will be bringing humanitarian aid and developing jobs, the government will make it as easy as possible for us to move and get established in Senegal.

Now I've lived in Africa for about ten years and I know that there will be hassles and delays. But to hear that the government wants us there and will facilitate this for us as much as possible... wow. What a huge relief and blessing.

As we got ready to leave, the Consul representative told us to call or stop by any time if we had questions - no need to make an appointment. He gave us his business card with his email and his home and cell numbers. He told us that because of our love for Senegal and its people, he considered us compatriots and also family. (At this point one of us got all teary-eyed. I'll let you guess who.)

It felt so good to be home.

Jun 14, 2009

Is the Pope Catholic?

Yes, he is. Has the Pope always lived in Rome? Nope. In fact, there used to be more than one Pope at a time. Beginning in the 14th century, the French Pope lived in the city of Avignon. The Palais des Papes (the Pope's Palace) is one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in Europe. And we got to see it yesterday!


Restaurant tables set up in front of the Palais

Our friends Rob and Anika invited us to take a day-trip to Avignon and explore a bit. We were, of course, very excited and thrilled to get out of the TCL public transportation limits. The weather was awesome - bright and sunny - and we loved Avignon. It was so amazing to discover this incredible palace that's less than three hours away. Unbelievable.


The square in front of the Palais des Papes


Palace walls


Restaurants set up outside the Palais des Papes


The exterior walls of the Palais des Papes


The inner courtyard


Inside the Palais walls


Arches overlooking the inner courtyard


Inside the Palais


View from a window in the Palais


Inside the Grand Chapel, where the Popes worshipped. Talk about a great wedding venue!


Listening to our audio guides in the Palais. And yes, we did choose 'anglais'.


View from the top of one of the Palais towers, overlooking the square below and the city of Avignon



Next post? The city of Avignon - outside the palace walls!