Brought to you by the number 14 and the letter A...

Back in 2007, Jonathan started on his thesis. For two years he read and researched, compiled notes, reviewed articles and finally started writing the beast (en français, of course). Along the way, I finally learned the correct title of his thesis and contributed greatly in the areas of coffee preparation, Microsoft Word formatting and keeping quiet so he could concentrate.

Today he got the grade we've been waiting for: 14.25/20

For most of you, that's probably not going to mean much, so allow me to translate...



The French grading system ranges from 0 to 20. But it's not accurate to just multiply a French grade by five to find its US equivalent. A grade of 20 signifies perfection and is virtually never given. Grades of 19 and 18 are equally rarely given. In most cases, a 16 is an excellent grade. However in some circumstances, a 12 may also be considered as an excellent grade.

And I'd like to throw this out there one more time: THESIS IN FRENCH. He is the only non-French person in his program and all his classes these last six years have been in French. Oh, and his very first French class was in 2001.

So yeah, we're pretty thrilled about a 14.25.

Penni - we're printing a copy of the thesis for you. Hope you have a BIG fridge magnet!

Not on board with this one...

I was on a bus headed to the office at 7:20am. Even in my groggy state, I knew something wasn't right when I looked up and saw a school bus headed right towards me. Not a real one, of course. This one:



Do you see what's wrong with this picture? If so, leave your comments below.

For the rest of the story, read the next post.

...and here's why.

(Continued from above)

School buses in France aren't yellow. They don't have little stop sign arms or red lights up top. Oh, and they don't say SCHOOL BUS in English across the top. But for some reason, this sign posted by the Lyon public transportation system to promote their late-night service after summer concerts features a picture of an American schoolbus.



According to their website, the city's fleet has over 200 buses. None were available for a photo shoot?

This isn't the first time I've been puzzled by the public transportation system. (Remember the Assistance Prevention jackets?) But hey, I guess I should thank them for giving me something to smile about before 8am.

Job well done.

Day and night...

One of the best-known names in Lyon's gastronomical world is Jean-Jacques Bernachon.

The Bernachon chocolates that are sold worldwide begin as raw cocoa beans in the shop in Lyon, which was started by Jean-Jacques's father. Whether you're talking with a Lyonnais about food, reading a guidebook for this city or just mention 'chocolate' in this geographic area - the Bernachon name will come up.

It deserves its reputation. And, as you might suspect, it's not located in our neighborhood but rather in the prestigious 6eme arrondissement. In the five years we've been in Lyon, we've never actually had Bernachon chocolate...until last week.

My friend bought me a bar of the Bernachon Jour et Nuit, which was incredible. (Note: 'was' as in past tense. We savored it, but not particularly slowly!) The Jour et Nuit (day and night) is a rich layer of dark chocolate and a smooth layer of milk chocolate. Unbelievable.

Anyway - were it not for my dear, sweet friend, I probably would have left Lyon without tasting Bernachon chocolate.

I am even more thankful for her gift because Jean-Jacques Bernachon passed away this week. The business will stay in the family and be run by the Stéphanie and Phillipe Bernachon. I'm sure the chocolates will maintain their reputation, but I am thankful to have had a bar of Jour et Nuit made under the famous Jean-Jacques Bernachon.


BERNACHON
42, cours Franklin-Roosevelt
69006 Lyon

Everything changes...or does it?

As we get closer to our (temporary) return to the US, I can't help but wonder how much I've changed in these five years in France. I don't mean just getting older and wiser - 'cause I am practically 30 these days - I mean changes in my personality, preferences, priorities, etc... Living in a country where a recycling bin and poster announcing a strike are usually within view can change the way you see things pretty quickly.

And since it's France, let's not forget the food. I'm guessing we'll be pretty surprised by how our tastes have changed over here - some as a result of the local food and some due to our chosen diet. (Have I mentioned we're on our third day of homemade pizza and are sticking with it until we get bored or run out of ideas? Tonight is ham and pineappple!)

I found myself pondering these questions the other day at about 4pm as I was taking a break from work to clean up the apartment a bit. I wandered into the kitchen and wandered back out holding a pot of leftover Kraft macaroni & cheese in one hand and the serving spoon in the other. Snack time, kids.



Nothing like eating cold macz-n-cheese with a shovel to knock a little humility and reality back into me. I may have acquired a love for fresh goat cheese and aged Gouda, but some things about me will never change.

On a related note... pizza ideas welcome! So far we've done BBQ chicken and a 'supreme'. Tomorrow is chicken and pesto, but not sure what else to put on it. Grazie!

Only in France...

When I got to the office this morning at the totally reasonable hour of 10am, there was a package waiting on my desk. It's not that unusual. I regularly get press kits or book samples from publishers looking for a little free publicity. As much as I'd like to help them out, in most cases the products would not be of interest to the readers of our magazines.

But today's package was a little different. I'm pretty sure most of our readers would enjoy it.


What's this? Ignore the cover letter. Go straight for the box.


Hmm... doesn't look like a book.


Well that's a new twist on 'wine press'! (I cracked myself up on that one.)


Only in France: wine in the mail, waiting on my desk.

Yes. I think readers would enjoy this, non?

Totally unrelated...

This is after we ate about half of them.

This weekend we went to our local Saturday morning market. Strawberries are in season and at 4€ for two kilos ($1.22 a pound) we couldn't pass them up. On our way home, we walk pass a bench. We've never stopped before, but on this particularly beautiful spring day I suggested we stop.

I'm trying to slow down and appreciate the 'only in France' moments we left have in our last four months. (Yes, four months exactly!) So in about a year when I see a Senegalese vendor selling pints of tiny strawberries for a fortune, I'll be able to say, "Remember that time in France when we ate two pounds of strawberries on that bench? And we weren't sweating from the heat?"



Totally unrelated other than it happened this weekend... I was cooking dinner when Jonathan came home from the clinic. He came into the kitchen, gave me a kiss, then said, "I'm pretty sure it's not athlete's foot...but there's something growing between your toes, Kari."



He makes me laugh. And eat lots of fruit. :)

Plan P for Lyon...

I was inspired this weekend.



Inspired to create a map of the free public restrooms in Lyon. It probably doesn't take much imagination to figure out what pressing need inspired me. (I'll give you a hint - how many of the past posts had to do with walking around the city for hours? Oh, and cafés.) Unfortunately I did not follow my own rule: have a plan P.

Anyway, here it is!


View Free public bathrooms in Lyon, France in a larger map

My personal favorite is located in Vieux Lyon near the métro entrance. It's open during the day, is always clean, rarely has a line and (ftw) has TP.

The one at Bellecour, behind the Tourism Office, is in a more practical location. However, ladies who prefer to sit rather than squat will want to avoid the Turkish toilet option. Also, while the facilities are free, it is polite to tip the dame pipi who keeps the place clean(ish).

My friend Meg recommends stopping by FNAC on rue de la République. It costs 25 centimes, but as she says, "Better to pay a quarter for a clean bathroom than to be obligated to buy something at a café." Good point.

On that note, there are pay-potties across the city. They are generally cleaner than the freebies, but you'll need exact change (usually 25 centimes).

One last bit of advice: carry a pack of tissues and hand sanitizer. You just never know.

Any locations to add or update on the map? E-mail me Other suggestions for people working on their Plan P? Leave a comment below.

Vieux Lyon...

Love, love, love this.


These streetlights are something I'll miss.


Chilly, but people were out!


Place Bellecour from Fourvière Hill. (You know you've been in France a while when catch yourself spelling it 'hille' by accident...)


Holly snapping away.


Fountain in front of St Jean Cathedral


Brasserie near the Cathedral


The arch at St Jean Cathedral


A Lyon native


Les Masson... not quite native.


I love this shop. So quaint.


Clockmaker's shop


Bouchon restaurant in the Old City


Of course, lots of lion statues in Lyon...


Restaurants in Vieux Lyon


These are for you!

The upside-down elephant...

The view of Fourvière Basilica from the Rhône River below. The Basilica's nickname is 'the updise-down elephant'.


Whoomp. There she is.


The golden statue of Mary atop Fourvière Basilica


Entry arches


Inside the Basilica


Holly photographing the details


My favorite shot


The city from the top of Fourvière hill


Rooftops downtown, which is where we're headed in the next post...

Market crazy...

White asparagus from Provence: €5 for 750 grams

In my job I am forever finding myself short of good photos of the French markets to illustrate magazine articles. So Holly and I took matters into our own camera-happy little hands and set out for some photo snapping at our local Tuesday market. I asked one of the vendors I buy from often and he was more than happy for us to photograph his stand. It was really cute how he kept trying to tidy up and make everything look just right - but it already did!


Pears: €1.80 per kilo

My favorite part is the little chalkboards that are used and re-used to mark the price per kilo or bowl and the origins (France, Spain, Morocco... even Florida sometimes). Keep in mind that 1 kilo = 2.2 lbs and €1 = $1.34. So if something is €1.50/kilo, it's 92 cents/lb.


€2.50 for 2 kilos


Artichokes: €1.50 for a bowl


Beans from Morocco: €2.80 for a bowl


Zucchini: €2.80 per kilo


The vendor and some shoppers


Tomatoes: €1.80 per kilo


Potatoes: €1 per kilo
Cauliflower: €1.80 each


Pineapple from Côte d'Ivoire: €2 for 2 (Why did I not buy these??)


Melons from Morocco: €2 for a bowl of 3


Kiwi from France: €1.50 for a bowl (Holly bought some and they were delicious.)


Zucchini: €2.80 per kilo


Endive: €2 for a bowl (I do not understand why people like these.)


Carrots: €1.80 for 2 kilos


Avocadoes: €2 for a bowl of 8 (Again - should have bought these!)


Artichokes: €1.50 for a bowl

So, what would you buy if you were in my shoes? I'm going on Tuesday this week, so let me know if you want me to buy/try something for you - assuming our budget allows it ;)